
First ascent of the route "Golden Eagle" on the 800 meters high south wall of the Aguja Desmochada, the southwest column in the Fitz Roy - massif, by Alexander Huber and Stephan Siegrist in February 2006.
The first ascent of the 25 rope lengths long route was free climbed, excluding 4 meters which, due to freezing up, were technically climbed (A1). "Golden Eagle" was first ascended and reached in pure alpine style in free climbing difficulties up to 5.11+.
On February 1st at 10 o'clock, Alexander and Stephan reached the summit of this salient granite needle.
Excerpt from the report of Alexander:
... the first ascent was accomplished without prior investigation and preparation, in pure alpine style from base camp to base camp. Due to the fresh snow in the past days, 3 rope lengths in the vertical wall section had frozen and had to be climbed in two short places using hooks (A1). In good conditions these free climbing might not exceed a degree of 5.11... The central part offers predominantly very steep hand cracks in compact and very coarse-grained granite...